Mt. Aberdeen

Updated: Mar 28, 2020

Matt Perdeoux, Luke Pta and myself have been looking for an alpine climb in the Canadian rockies to do together for a while, and when Matt brought up mt. Aberdeen with a wi3 ice route to gain the glacier, we were all keen! On June 30th, we left our home town of Banff, Alberta and headed west to Lake Louise at 2am to begin the climb. After approaching for nearly 2 hours, we finally tossed out crampon on and geared up to tackle the steep ice tong to gain the glacier. I began up, and lead the three of us on the steep ice, simule climbing up to maintain a good pace. Days leading up to the climb there was still lots of precipitation falling in the alpine causing some isothermal snow (post holling). This didn’t slow us up to much on the ice, but once we gained the glacier, it got rather annoying slowing us down quite a bit and made the snow bridges over the crevasses quite weak. The rest of the climb was primarily a snow slog with a small rock step to the summit, but the views from the top were incredible. Looking over Mt. Victoria to the west and to the east, the mighty Mt. Temple. On our decent we made a side trip and also tagged mt. Haddo, which was primarily a gradual slop up rock and snow. Our decent consisted of using left over v-threads on the ice to rappel back to the base of the glacier where we began our hike back to the car. The climb took us a total of 10 hrs, and we had plenty of time left to grab a beer at the Banff brew pub before I had to go to work for 9pm!


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